The tree pruning video shows how Mike, an experienced tree surgeon, tackles the task of pruning a mature garden tree.
Pruning of trees may be required for many reasons including maximising yield on a fruit tree, allowing light into the garden or remedial pruning to help repair damage or cut out dead wood. The pruning of each tree is different due to size shape and location however general principles should be applied and safety consideration are paramount.
It is important that the reason for the pruning is considered and an assessment of the tree to be pruned is made prior to the first cut. In other words think carefully why the tree needs to be pruned and what is to be achieved so that you know which branches need cutting and for what purpose. If you are cutting to allow light into the garden you may need to only remove a couple of branches from one side but how would that affect the overall shape of the tree? Would it be better to cut cloud holes to gain a more natural look? Thinning out branches on fruit trees stimulates growth but random cutting is not as good as trying to shape the tree like spokes of a wheel so that the light can filter down from above. To do this may require training the branches with pieces of line but would it be more pleasing to the eye to have a more causal arrangement of branches? When cutting out damage is this a good opportunity to reshape the tree to bring back a more balanced look?
When engaging a tree surgeon to perform the work on larger trees for you it may be sensible to take pictures of the tree to be pruned (Without leaves in winter) and mark on the pictures each branch that needs to be cut ant the location of the cut. This can be done by the surgeon or yourself so that you have complete agreement of the work to be performed before the first cut is made. Remember trees in the garden are the largest plants and therefore have the most dramatic effect on the look and feel of a garden a few cuts too many or in the wrong place can damage the look and injure the tree.
Tree branches are heavy, can split and fall at strange angles causing damage to people and thing below so care must be taken to ensure that if branches are allowed to fall they will not damage items underneath. Working up inside trees needs special care since it is impossible to move quickly out of the way of splitting branches. Using power tools safely is a separate subject. Suffice to say that when using tools of any type whilst climbing in trees one must ensure that you are adequately harnessed to guard against falls because it is all too easy to loose your footing when your hands are occupied with equipment and you are concentrating on the task in hand.
Garden Trees and when they should be pruned
| Latin name |
Common Name |
When to prune |
Reasons to prune |
| Acacia |
Mimosa |
Soon after flowering |
Remove frost-damaged growth once prolonged frosts are past. |
| Acer |
Maple |
Winter, when fully dormant. |
Maples "bleed" sap badly at other times |
| Aesculus |
Horse-chestnut |
After leaf-fall, from autumn to mid winter |
Minor pruning may be carried out in summer. |
| Alnus |
Alder |
After leaf-fall, from autumn to mid winter. |
Minor pruning may be carried out in summer. |
| Betula |
Birch |
From late summer to before mid-winter. |
Birches bleed heavily, prune only when fully dormant. |
| Carpinus |
Hornbeam |
From late summer to before mid-winter. |
To avoid severe bleeding. |
| Carya |
Hickory |
Autumn to early winter. |
Hickories bleed heavily if pruned in spring so prune only when fully dormant. |
| Castanea |
Sweet chestnut |
When dormant in the autumn or winter |
Minor pruning in late summer. |
| Catalpa |
Indian bean tree |
When dormant in the autumn to late winter |
Prune out forst-damaged in spring. |
| Cercis |
Judas tree |
Late spring to early summer |
To deter the entry of organisms. |
| Cornus |
Dogwood |
Autumn to early spring. |
Keep pruning of established trees to the minimum. |
| Corylus |
Hazel |
Winter, when fully dormant. |
Established trees need little pruning, But they respond to hard pruning. |
| Davidia |
Handkerchief tree |
Autumn to early spring. |
They do not respond well to hard pruning, so a poor form is hard to rectify. |
| Eucalyptus |
Gum tree |
Winter to spring. |
Coppicing or pollarding to keep juvenile foliage. |
| Fagus |
Fagus |
Autumn to early spring. |
Prune hedges in winter ,or midsummer if they show any signs of disease. |
| Fraxinus |
Ash |
Autumn to early spring, when dormant. |
Does not respond well to hard pruning, on mature trees large cuts produce fast-growing water shoots. |
| Ilex |
Holly |
Mid to late summer |
Rapid extension growth sometimes fails to ripen fully before winter, susceptible to frost damage cut out in spring. |
| Juglans |
Walnut |
Midsummer to before midwinter |
Do not prune in late winter or spring as the sap rises early and will bleed profusely. |
| Magnolia |
|
Midsummer when the leaves have expanded fully |
Little pruning other than to shorten lanky young branches, to keep shape. |
| Malus |
Crab apple |
Autumn to early spring. |
Does not respond well to hard pruning, on mature trees. |
| Morsus |
Mulberry |
Autumn to early winter. |
To avoid severe bleeding. |
| Nothofagus |
Southern beech |
Late spring, after the fist flush of rapid spring growth. |
Keep pruning of established trees to the minimum. |
| Platanus |
Plane |
Autumn to early spring. |
Most trees respond vigorously to hard pruning. |
| Populus |
Poplar |
Late summer or early autumn. |
Prune trees vulnerable to canker. |
| Prunus |
Cherry |
Midsummer |
Remove sucker in early spring. |
| Pyrus |
Pear |
Autumn to early spring. |
Fire blight may be a problem: cut out affected growth and disinfect tools, burn prunings. |
| Quercus |
Oak |
Autumn to early spring. |
|
| Quercus |
Holm oak |
Mid-to late summer |
|
| Robinia |
False acacia |
Mid-to late summer |
Large pruning cuts seldom heal well and prone to rot, |
| Salix |
Willow |
Autumn to early spring. |
Coppice or pollard suitable species in mid-spring just before new growth begins. |
| Sorbus |
Rowan |
Autumn to early spring. |
Remove dead wood in summer |
| Tilia |
Lime |
Mid summer to midwinter. |
Lime bleed if pruned in spring. |
| Ulmus |
Elm |
Autumn to early spring. |
Mature trees are rare. |
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This document is and video are only guides and should not be relied upon to be accurate in all cricumstances.
